Whether you crave an aura cleansing or a simple rustic retreat, the Western Wisconsin Spiritualist Camp (304 Hill, Wonewoc) offers weekender and pilgrim alike a peaceful respite in the rolling, unglaciated countryside of southwestern Wisconsin. Sure, you could go to the Dells in less time, but approximately 20 miles to the west of I-90/94 along highway 33 lies the gateway to the great unknown.
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If the idea of a night’s sleep on “Spook Hill” is just too much for you, you might try one of several nearby alternatives. The Garden City Motel (608-462-8253), at the intersection of highway 33 and 80/82 approximately four miles north of Wonewoc in Union Center, has 13 adequate rooms, but the real action is in its two geodesic domes. These fiberglass huts, popular with both romantic couples and hunting parties, sleep up to six. Swag lamps and chrome are the prevailing decor, and each has a small kitchenette and shower–sorry honeymooners, no circular tub. They may not be posh, but they’re incredibly popular with regulars, who book reservations up to a year in advance. (Motel rooms, including tax: $26 for a single, $30 for a double; a night in the dome is $45 for two people, $55 for four, $65 for six.) The Valley Inn Motor Hotel (608-462-8251), on highway 80/82 just south of Elroy, has 30 bright, clean rooms with full bath and TV priced between $30 and $42 per night. Its entirely indifferent proprietor seems eager to unload the place at first opportunity; the restaurant and lounge are now closed. The Voyageur Inn (608-524-6431), on highway H one block east of highway 33 in Reedsburg, has “viking-sized” remodeled rooms with cable TV. It also has an indoor pool, health facility, and restaurant and lounge, not bad for a big, modern conference center. (Prices range from $39 to $79; rooms are cheaper weekdays and off-season.)
For more exotic–and let’s face it, probably more comfortable–lodging the area is host to several bed and breakfasts, most of which are seasonal establishments open May through October to coincide with bicycling season. Just five miles north of Elroy on highway H is Waarvik’s Century Farm (608-462-8595), a 156-acre family farm in tranquil surroundings with walking trails. The 140-year-old log cabin ($75 per night for two people) with loft bedroom and balcony overlooking the garden is tasteful pioneer, complete with small kitchen and a connecting outhouse with a tub/shower fashioned from a livestock watering tank. The guest house offers three bedrooms with shared bath ($50 per couple). Couples with kids are confined to the two-room family suite in “Mom & Dad’s” house ($75 a night for family). All prices include tax and a full breakfast prepared with fruits and vegetables picked fresh from the garden. Reservations, particularly for the cabin, are recommended.
Most of the surrounding eateries offer simple home cooking and plenty of it, but the Alpine Haus (850 Water, 608-489-3888) in Hillsboro is a quaint cut above the rest. Specializing in Austrian, Swiss, and Yugoslavian cuisine, busy proprietor Anna Josellis does the cooking and decorating, and even sews the waitstaff’s costumes. The Wiener schnitzel ($9.95) and civapcici sausage ($7.50) are highly recommended, but everything looks good. Desserts are worth saving room for. Carousel horses add to the atmosphere. (Open 11 AM to 8 PM; breakfast served Saturday only. Closed Monday.)
Across the road the Spring Valley Restaurant, Bar & Golf Course (608-462-8691) serves basic fare in bland surroundings, but the malts are surprisingly good. Sit back and watch the activity out on the links while sampling the flavor of the week.