The food in India varies vastly from one region to another, but what most Americans are accustomed to eating in restaurants is north Indian, which was influenced by the high-living Moguls (the refined word for the marauding Mongol hordes who conquered Delhi in the 16th century and made it the seat of their empire).
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The food at Raj Darbar, “the Royal Court,” is more prosaic, but definitely Mogul-influenced. Purists may insist it is to true Indian regional cuisine what chop suey is to China, but until the real thing arrives I’ll happily make do with their skillfully prepared tandooris, vindaloos, and two of my favorite appetizers, samosas and pakoras.
Main courses are uniformly excellent: juicy, well-seasoned tandoori chicken ($7.95), marinated in yogurt, garlic, onions, lemon juice, and freshly ground herbs and spices, then baked in a hot clay oven; Shahjahani biryani ($10.95), a festive Mogul dish served at weddings, prepared with chicken marinated in a paste of ginger, garlic, onions, yogurt, lemon juice, and spices, then steamed with green peas and saffron-flavored rice, and garnished with raisins and cashews; and lamb (in India they use goat) vindaloo ($9.95) in a mildly spicy sweet-and-sour, tamarind-based sauce.
Raj Darbar, 2350 N. Clark, is open seven days a week. Lunch is served from 11:30 to 2:30 daily, dinner from 5 to 10 Sunday through Thursday and from 5 to 11 Friday and Saturday. Carry out and delivery are available. For more information call 348-1010.
