It’s a little scary when a terrific new place opens up in what’s consistently been a restaurant burial ground. In the case of the Marc, one can only hope that it will break the jinx on its address. It certainly deserves to.
Andrew Marc Rothschild toiled in Gordon’s kitchen during late 1991 and part of last year, after stints at New York’s esteemed River Cafe, London’s even more celebrated La Gavroche, and several spots in Strasbourg, France.
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For the vegetarians among us there is a saute of chunked wild mushrooms ($6). Porcini, portobellos, whatever happens to be around, done in a light, translucent sauce that doesn’t compete with the mushroom flavors–all garnished by an upright slice of crisp phyllo pastry sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. The phyllo adds just the right crunch for contrast.
Unlike a lot of places serving this kind of nouvelle-derived food, the portions here are generous so you may not need dessert. But if you opt for a sweet closing you’ll find some gems–like a trio of creme brulees served in little eggcups ($6). The flavors are vanilla, chocolate, and coffee, each more satiny than the last. Also an unusual, tasty flourless apple cake, drizzled with warm butterscotch sauce ($6).
Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): photo/Jon Randolph.
