The coffeehouse tradition goes back to 1672, when an Armenian named Pascal opened a coffee stall at the Saint-Germain Fair in Paris. He called it a “cafe.” Gradually cafes became hangouts and began to offer food and wine. But these days in Paris–if not in Chicago–cafes are dying out, and chic wine bars where Parisians on the fast track can choose from a variety of wines by the glass to complement their tartine or pate are taking up the slack. If the parallel holds, Starbucks will be serving wine by the glass in the year 2300.
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Rudi’s is more old-fashioned French cafe than newfangled wine bar. The food is traditional hearty bistro fare prepared by the Ritz Carlton-trained Juan Hurtado, and the atmosphere that of a cozy little neighborhood hangout, with the obligatory big bar up front, lace cafe curtains, and red-and-white checked tablecloths. Terrific taped music runs to Billie Holiday, Glenn Miller, Charles Aznavour, and Edith Piaf. On Monday nights there’s the added attraction of a jazz guitarist and a vocalist, Bobbi Jordan, who also waits tables. She insists Rudi makes her park cars and do the books too, and signs her name on your tablecloth with a heart in place of a dot over the “i.” But it’s Rudi who’s the heart of the place. Though he’s never intrusive, you can tell he loves playing host.
We needed the extra bread to sop up the last delicious drop of our appetizer sauces–delicate and delicious tomato garlic for the pleasingly plump bay scallops Provencal ($5.50) and sinfully satisfying garlic herb butter for the positively chubby baked escargots ($4.95)–and to finish off the bottom of the bowl of the sensational soup du jour ($2.95), mussels, onions, wine, and cream laced with saffron. Caesar salad ($3.95) was large enough for two, and as good as any I’ve had recently–though I’d appreciate the option of having an anchovy. Years ago you always got them automatically.
Rudi’s Wine Bar & Cafe, 2424 N. Ashland, is open nightly. Food is served from 6 to midnight, but the bar remains open till 2, Saturday till 3. Reservations are encouraged, especially on weekends. For more information call 404-RUDI (7834).
